Today I am trying a whisky from the Scottish Highlands. A whisky that has won numerous awards and is a favourite of many people. I am looking a the Old Pulteney 21 year old single malt Scotch whisky.
In 1826, during a period in the Wick county town history known as the Great Herring boom, a small distillery was established right in the heart of ‘Pulteneytown’.
This Old Pulteney Distillery was and still is one of the most northerly distilleries on the Scottish mainland. This Highland distillery was quite inaccessible before they built roads. Barley was brought in by sea, and they shipped the whisky out the same way.
Many of the distillery workers were also employed as fishermen. Wick became known for the barrels of silver (herring) and gold (whisky), which left the port in huge numbers.
The distillery itself has a fascinating history, with its distinctive pot stills defying convention to this day. The wash still is an ongoing source of interest due to the absence of a ‘swan neck’.
Legend has it that it was too tall for the still house when the still was delivered, and the manager decided to cut the top off. The Old Pulteney bottle incorporates a bulbous neck to reflect the shape of the stills.
The distillery closed in 1930 due to declining trade after the local parish enforced prohibition laws. However, it was re-opened in 1951 when the parish abolished the law. The distillery bottle single malt whisky under Old Pulteney’s name, and there are both official and independent releases over the years.
Pulteney is part of the International Beverage Ltd company, whose whisky portfolio includes Hankey Bannister, Balblair, anCnoc, Catto’s and Speyburn whisky.
Related article: Glengoyne 21 yo Whisky
The Old Pulteney 21 year old whisky has been voted 2012 World Whisky of the Year by Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible. The Old Pulteney single malt has been matured in ex-Olorosso sherry cask as well as ex-bourbon casks. Non-chill-filtered and with natural colour.
ABV: 46%
COLOUR: A golden amber with straw highlights. It is an oily whisky with slow fingers on the inside of the glass.
NOSE: The first impression of the nose brings sherry with cereals. There are notes of oak and florals. The nose is smooth and quite subtle. The sweetness from the bourbon casks comes through in notes of toffee and vanilla.
PALATE: When tasting the Old Pulteney without adding any water, it is fairly spicy. After adding a bit of water, the palate brings notes of oak, spice, cereals with hints of butterscotch. There are notes of fruit and malt cookies in the background.
FINISH: A medium length finish that ends in notes of spice, oak and fruit
RATING: VERY GOOD
Strangely the Old Pulteney reminded me a bit of the Highland Park 18 year old that I tasted. There are notes in the finish of both these whiskies that are very similar. Looking at a map of distilleries, I noticed that these two distilleries are quite close together.
As enthusiastic as many people are about this whisky, it will never be a favourite. I find the spice overwhelming and the light sweetness underwhelming. It feels to me like they just don’t fit. After 21 years in a barrel, it is not the most complex dram. With the endorsement of Jim Murry, I was expecting something more.
In terms of a whisky food pairing, Marc, owner of the WhiskyBrother shop in Hyde Park (and my favourite whisky shop in South Africa), suggest that you try the Old Pulteney 21 year old whisky with a whole quail. Now that sounds interesting!
Also Read: Chivas Royal Salute 21yo whisky
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