Whisky of the Week

April and the time around Easter is an indulgent chocolate month. Chocolate bunnies, eggs, even chocolate chickens can be found in most of the shops. Echocolate everywhere. I keep on finding lost (hidden) chocolate eggs in strange places. I am not complaining.

With all the chocolate around, it is nearly a requirement to eat chocolate. I realised that with all the chocolate around the house, I have not blogged about my favourite chocolate whisky – The Wemyss Malts Dark Chocolate Orange single malt Scotch whisky.

I tasted Wemyss Malts for the first time at Wild About Whisky in Dullstroom and was smitten. Since then, my Wemyss Malt collection has grown substantially. I picked up this 2013 release on one of my trips out of the country. Wemyss Malts single casks are not available in SA (yet).

Also Read: English Whisky Co Chapter 6 Whisky

This past year some of the blends such as The Hive have become available in selected shops. I have however managed to get my hands on a few releases and have written a few times about Wemyss Malts. My favourite is the Wemyss Malt Brandy Casket.

Wemyss Dark Chocolate Orange is a single malt Glenlivet bottling. Distilled in 1977 and bottled in 2013, this 36 yo was aged in Hogshead and was one of only 149 bottles. As with all their single cask releases, the Wemyss tasting panel names the bottle based on the whisky’s individual taste and aroma.

After 36 years of the Angels taking their share, only 149 bottles were released. I wonder how many of the 149 bottles remain?

Wemyss Malts Dark Chocolate Orange Whisky Review

ABV: 46%

COLOUR: Dark gold

NOSE: Orange marmalade, oak and cocoa powder.

PALATE: Fresh orange slices dusted with cocoa powder. Faint hints of cloves and mint. In the background, there is more citrus and malty richness. You can feel the 46% alcohol on your palate, and it needs a bit of water to smooth the sharp edges.

Water releases a little more sweetness in the Dark Chocolate Orange. It is a medium-bodied whisky with plenty of spice.

FINISH: The finish end in notes of citrus and spice.

RATING: VERY GOOD

This whisky is perfectly named. It is the whisky equivalent of dark chocolate covered orange slices. That is what I love about Wemyss Malts – how perfectly they name their releases. However, as much as I love chocolate and this whisky, it is not the most complex of whiskies.

After more than 35 years in a cask at Glenlivet, I was hoping for something with a bit more depth and a few more nuances.

Still, the Wemyss Malts Dark Chocolate Orange is the great dram to enjoy in April – don’t you agree? I have tried various Wemyss releases including the Wemyss Malts Sweet Mint Infusion, Wemyss Gooseberry Marmalade and the Wemyss Velvet Fig blended whisky.

And I see that a few of the blended malts are now available in South Africa and I have tasted Wemyss The Hive and loved it.

Also Read: Tomintoul 16 yo Whisky

Koval Bourbon

By Jeannette Wentzel

On 04/10/2017

In Bourbon whiskey

I have been testing and writing about an American whiskey or bourbon every month for the last two and a half years. Slowly I am running out of affordable bourbons available in SA to taste and write about. I still have one or 2 bourbon’s to write about and this week I am opening my first Koval, the Koval single barrel bourbon whiskey.

Established in 2008, Koval is a craft distillery situated within the Chicago City limits and is one of the first new distilleries that opened there since the end of Prohibition. Koval produces organic whiskey, liqueurs and spirits.

The founders Robert and Sonat Birnecker is living their whiskey dream. They left their respective careers in favour of distilling organic spirits from scratch.

Koval has on a grain-to-bottle philosophy. It beginning with grain from local farmers, to on-site milling and mashing, to finally distilling, bottling, and packaging. Koval means “blacksmith,” in numerous Eastern European languages, but the word in Yiddish also refers to a “black sheep”.

All the Koval whiskies are “single barrel” expressions and aged in 30-gallon charred barrels. They have released a few unusual expressions such as the 100% oats, 100% millet and four grain (oats, malted barley, rye and wheat) expressions.

The small-batch Koval single barrel bourbon that I am tasting this week has a mash bill of at least 51% corn, but instead of the rye or wheat, Koval bourbon included millet. Millet is a gluten-free ancient grain that grows extensively in Africa and India and Asia.

Also Read: Evan Williams Bourbon

Koval Single Barrel Bourbon Whiskey Review

I have a bottle from Barrel #1206.

COUNTRY: USA
<
ABV: 47%

COLOUR: Dark gold with hints of copper-red.

NOSE: Bready, vanilla, lightly toasted oak with hints of alcohol. Not very complex and quite subtle. If you let it breathe a bit, more vanilla and oak notes appear with hints of sugary sweetness.

PALATE: Pepper, vanilla, sun ripe oranges and hints of warming wood spice. When you add a few drops of water, more sweet fruit and caramel notes appear. The water also softens the raw alcohol edges and makes it more drinkable. However, the addition of water also tones down the complexity of the Koval bourbon.

FINISH: Long with pepper and orange

RATING: VERY GOOD

Perhaps I was expecting too much. I was intrigued by the innovative mash bill and the unusual grains Koval used. I like the farm to bottle philosophy and that two people are following their dream. But sadly, this bottle feels unfinished.

The Koval single barrel has lots of raw edges, and it tastes like the elements don’t quite go together. Perhaps it is the barrel it is from, maybe my taste buds just like a sweeter dram. Should I try to get my hands on some of their other releases?

Also Read: Blanton’s Gold Edition Bourbon

Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey & Woodford Reserve Bourbon

By Jeannette Wentzel

On 03/29/2017

In Bourbon whiskey

Jack Daniel's function header
The invite said Bar Ber Black Sheep… My first thought … spelling error? The song is BaBa black sheep. But Google quickly corrected me and directed me to Rosebanks’ new hip and happening spot. Park Corner, a new development on the corner of Jan Smuts Avenue and Bolton Road in Johannesburg.

A barber and a bar combined. A place to meet up with some friends and get a haircut. All in 1 afternoon. Quirky, but quite cool. The function was the American whiskey tasting and food pairing experience with Brown Forman’s American Whiskey ambassador Cam Dawson together with Jack Daniel’s whiskey and Woodford Reserve.

Cam Dawsom Jack Daniel's function
Cam is a Scottish bartender who won the Jack Daniel’s Birthday Cocktail Competition in 2009 with his serve Jasper’s Jam. Today he is the Jack Daniel’s Old No 7 Ambassador. Cam was not there to make us cocktails, he flew in to chat to a few selected whisky friends about the Jack Daniel’s and Woodford Reserve brands.

He also brought with him 2 new and unique bottles for us to taste. More on that later. Walking in, I was thrilled to see my beautiful friend Emily from Whizzky and also a few of the guys from Wild about Whisky. They drove down from Dullstroom for the function.

Cam Dawsom Jack Daniel's fuction

First up Cam chatted about the process at the Jack Daniel’s distillery. All Jack Daniel’s whiskey is filtered through 3 meters (10 feet) sugar maple charcoal. This process, known as the Lincoln County (LC) process removes impurities. Cam had a spirit sample before and after filtering and it is incredible how big the impact of the LC process is. You could clearly smell the difference. After chatting about the distillery and the founder Jasper “Jack” Daniel, we got to taste some whiskey.

The Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Range

Jack Daniel's Range
First up was the standard Jack Daniel’s Tennessee whiskey. Known worldwide and the mainstay of the brand. If you have not tried it, read my tasting notes here.

Next up was Gentleman Jack. Double mellowed and very smooth. This delicious whiskey pairs well with Snickers as well. You can read my tasting notes on this release here.

Then came Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel whiskey. Charcoal mellowed through the sugar maple, then matured in toasted and charred new white American oak barrels and stored in the uppermost part of the warehouse. What a delicious experience! Robust and complex with caramel, toasted oak, hints of coffee, pepper and vanilla notes and fruit. O my word! It is the first time that I taste the Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel and I LOVE it. It was warm and rich and just lovely!

Last of the Jack Daniel’s range was the Sinatra Select. Named after old Blue Eyes, Frank Sinatra was a long time fan of Jack Daniel’s and was often seen sipping a glass on stage. This premier release is sugar maple charcoal mellowed and then matured in new white oak barrels that have been toasted and charred. The Sinatra barrels have deep grooves on the inside of the staves to expose the whiskey to extra layers of oak. Creamy oak, with hints of smoke, sweet honey, apples and butterscotch with spicy vanilla and smooth, soft oak. Really delicious.

Jack Daniels function Whizzky Emily

Woodford Reserve Range

The Woodford Reserve is one of my favourite bourbons. It has a high percentage of rye and is triple distilled.It is crafted in small batches. Rich in dried fruits, apricots and oranges, bits of condensed milk and vanilla spice. I have paired this great bourbon with a fruity Hawaiian pizza.

Next up was the Woodford Reserve Double Oaked. This expression begins life being aged in the same way as the classic Woodford Reserve, but following this, it is further matured in barrels which have been heavily toasted and lightly charred.

It has notes of malva pudding with fresh cream custard and dark cherries bursting with juice. Caramel, honey and chocolate with hints of toasted oak.

New to South Africa, this full-bodied bourbon is the perfect after-dinner drink. This will be marvellous in winter, sipping it next to a campfire. I fell in love. This is the next bottle I am buying!

Also Read: My Top 5 Whisky Food pairings

Other Jack Daniel’s Surprises

Jack Daniel's single barrel rye
Cam surprised us with 2 special bottlings that he brought along for us to taste. First up was the Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Rye. This historic creation marries the smoothness of Jack Daniel’s with a unique 70% rye grain bill.

Complex flavours of ripe fruit combine with lightly toasted oak to create a taste rich with spice and a pleasant lingering finish. This is a big, bold rye that does not overpower. What a delicious whiskey. Sadly, not available outside of the USA.

Jack Daniel's Single barrel barrel proof

Last but not least was the Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Barrel Proof. Bottled at 130.9 proof, this is whiskey as nature intended it. Bottled straight from the barrel at its full strength. Intense, smooth, and remarkably varied, Barrel Proof is bottled at anywhere from 125 to 140-proof, taking Jack’s trademark vanilla and toasted oak flavours to bold new levels.

I have done a more in-depth comparison between the Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel vs the Woodford Reserve to look at which are their key strengths.
This will put hair on your chest if you are not careful. Even though it has a very high ABV and a bit of an alcohol bite, it does not overwhelm your taste buds and it is surprisingly smooth.
This afternoon was a fantastic experience. It was interesting to hear about some of the small things that go into making this golden liquid. Also to hear about the philosophies that started this great company.

Now I need to get to the shop to get the Woodford Reserve Double Oaked.

Also Read: Woodford Reserve Rye vs Jack Daniel’s Rye Whiskey

Photos courtesy of Jack Daniel’s. Please enjoy responsibly. Not for sale to persons under 18.

Kavalan King Car Conductor Whisky

By Jeannette Wentzel

On 03/27/2017

In Single Malt whisky

This week I am tasting the Kavalan King Car Conductor single malt whisky from Taiwan. Back in 2009, when I started collecting whisky, it was only possible to find whiskies from the more traditional whisky-making countries like Ireland, USA and Canada.

But in 2011, on one of John’s regular international trips, he suddenly stumbled across a bottle of Finnish whisky and then a bottle of Taiwanese whisky. Suddenly the flood gates opened.

There was an explosion of world whisky. It might have been that the trip opened our eyes to something that has been there all along. Regardless of the reason, I started noticing world whiskies more frequently, and my collection changed to incorporate more world whisky.

To date, I have tasted whiskies from 23 different countries. But one of the first non-traditional countries I managed to get a bottle from, was Kavalan from Taiwan.

I got my hands on a Kavalan Solist Ex-Bourbon Cask Strength whisky, and it blew my minds. It is probably one our my and John’s favourite whiskies of all times.

Since then, I have tasted quite a few more Kavalans. It is always one of the first stands I visit at the Whisky Show. The whisky names from the King Car distillery are all inspired by the orchestra. There is the Kavalan Solist Range of different cask finishes, the Kavalan Podium, Kavalan Concertmaster and this King Car Conductor.

Situated in Yuanshan, at the cross-boundary of the Yi-Lan mountains, the King Car distillery has been creating Taiwanese whisky since 2008. The King Car company is not new to beverages. They have been producing food and beverage since 1979. However, the distillery was only started in 2005.

The whisky is made in the Scottish whisky tradition with two copper stills imported from Scotland. However, Taiwan is a very different climate from Scotland, and the whisky matures quicker in the cask.< The angel’s share is also considerably higher, at 10% compared to around 2% in Scotland.

The Conductor expression is the first to carry the name of the King Car Group instead of Kavalan. The King Car Conductor whisky was commissioned by Mr Lee to be the top offering in the permanent range.

Also Read: Macallan 10 yo Whisky

Kavalan King Car Conductor Whisky Review

King Car Conductor single malt whisky used eight additional cask types and a higher proportion of ex-Sherry casks compared to the standard single malt. The brief was to make the flavour the fullest and most rounded possible. The King Car Conductor whisky is non-chill filtered.

COUNTRY: Taiwan

ABV: 46%

COLOUR: Vivid amber

NOSE: Rich and complex with notes of vanilla, ripe oranges, sweet apricots and lightly toasted oak. There are faint hints of marshmallow balanced with wood spice. After breathing a bit, there are hints of fruit jam and toffee.

PALATE: Warming and sweet with honey, vanilla, oak, fruity notes, and malt. It is complex and smooth. There is a slight alcohol bite. Hints of cinnamon and cloves warm you up from the inside, and after adding a bit of water, the alcohol softens, and more sweetness appears together with some citrus and coconut notes. Adding a bit of water opens up this dram and allow all the complexities to come out.

FINISH: This dram has the perfect finish and balances sweet honey and vanilla with the pepper spices.

RATING: EXCELLENT

For a moment, I was concerned that a whisky using eight different casks is going to be a riot of unbalanced flavours. But the notes work in perfect harmony to create a beautiful symphony. This Kavalan release is a delicious dram. Not so complicated that it demands all your attention, but soothing like beautiful background music that allows you to relax.

Previously I paired the King Car Conductor whisky with some dark chocolate liqueur soaked cherries. The combination of dark chocolate and cherries made the coconut notes stand out much more, and it was a delicious pairing.

Also Read: Ardbeg Dark Cove whisky

BenRiach Curiositas 10 year old Whisky

By Jeannette Wentzel

On 03/20/2017

In Single Malt whisky

Today I am looking at something peaty from Speyside: The BenRiach Curiositas 10 year old single malt Scotch whisky. Whiskies from Speyside are among Scotland’s lightest, sweetest single malts.

Situated around the river Spey, Speyside is one of the most densely populated whisky areas in the world. Over 30 distilleries are located in the region.

The lack of peat or coastal air has allowed the Speyside region to create a broad style of whiskies that are lighter, honeyed and refined. Some have heavy sherries influences, but there is an undercurrent of rich malts with toffee and honeyed flavours, paired with nuts and fruity notes.

Apple, pear, honey, vanilla and spice all have a part to play in Speyside drams. Now and again, an expression comes along that veers off the designated path, like this BenRiach Curiositas 10 yo peated single malt whisky.

Also Read: Glenlivet 15 yo whisky

BenRiach distillery is a single malt distillery near Elgin in Speyside and as of June 2016 owned by Brown-Forman. BenRiach Distillery was established by John Duff in 1898.

There were various changes in ownership until in 2004 when the distillery along with several thousand casks was acquired by an independent consortium, the BenRiach Distillery Company Limited.

Other distilleries within this grouping include the Glendronach and Glenglassaugh Distilleries.

The new owners wasted no time, and they resumed production and soon released a 12 year old, 16 year old and 20 year old expression.

They also redesigned the logo and the packaging of the bottles. Since these releases, there has been a steady stream of standard and exotic finishes released. Some of the casks that the BenRiach Company got as part of the 2004 sale included batches of more peated malt whisky. The BenRiach Curiositas contains some of this peated whisky.

BenRiach Curiositas 10 year old Whisky Review

Curiositas is a 10 year old, heavily peated release, peated to an estimated 55 ppm based on some research. More peated than the heavily peated Port Charlotte release from Bruichladdich that I tasted a few weeks ago.

REGION: Speyside

ABV: 46%

COLOUR: Light straw nearly a light golden yellow with hints of green.

NOSE: Earthy peat, heady smoke, plump fruit, honey sweetness, caramelized toffee mixed with vanilla. Faint hints of oak and malt.

PALATE: Peat, ash, honey sweetness mixed with vanilla, peppery spice and oak. The Curiositas is big and bold. Rich and satisfying, the peat does not have the same medicinal, seaside notes that some of the Islay drams have.

It is earthy and rich, nicely balanced with honey and fruity sweetness. Water brings more of the well known Speyside character and softens the peat. More fruity sweetness appears.

FINISH: Long with notes of pepper, nutmeg, oak and sweetness.

RATING: EXCELLENT

What an unexpectedly intriguing dram! All that earthy peat balanced very nicely with the fruity sweetness. I preferred it without water, to preserve the more peaty side of the dram. The Benriach Curiositas is not the most complex whisky but delicious and warming.

Heavy peat from Speyside? I was wondering if I should compare to similar-aged Islay drams? The Ardbeg 10 year old perhaps full of maritime flavours? Then I realized, no, I should judge it all on its own merits, just for what it is – a peaty Speyside whisky.

The fundamental question should always remain: Do I want another glass? Yes, please!

Also Read: Balvenie Doublewood 17 yo whisky